Mori and Micro-loans



View of Mt. Kilimanjaro's highest peak, Kibo,

from the path by Aunt Nancy's home in village of Mori



Blogging from my room in Mori;
took 3 hours to put up 2 posts.



We made it home safe and sound Thurs night (3/18/11).  I had intended to blog more from TZ, but slow-to-non-existent internet connections prevented me from doing so.  Therefore, here are some postings after the fact, coming later than I would have wished because I had to return to work immediately (bummer!) and of course have been unpacking and doing laundry.

The day after we visited Tuamoyo, we took a 9-hr bus ride up to a town near Moshi.  We got picked up by one of the SEVERAL nephews, Justin, who took us on a wild ride up the mountain to the village of Mori, where the Machas live.  Apparently, Justin has to drive that fast to get momentum so as not to get stuck in the dark dirt, but I have a feeling not all the sections of the road required such speed.  Nancy Marie loved these wild car rides and would stick her hands up in the air like on a roller coaster and yell, "Whee!"



Mt. Meru, another peak of Mt. Kili;
view from Aunt Nancy's back patio



Gate that leads down to neighbors; side
door leads to back of "nana quarters";
note the blue, Nancy's favorite color

Aunt Nancy's home in Mori (which officially belongs to son Franklin in NC) is lovely and small.  She has running water, electricity, and retaining walls which give flat spaces to walk on; but once there, she's there, because getting to the nearest town with a supermarket requires a 7-mile hike on the winding dirt road.  Relatives live in similar structures in very close proximity; and in fact, Mamari (sis-in-law) and Nancy's bro-in-law "Shimeji" would bring us banana stew every night for dinner.  These little yellow bananas are used in everything (even beer!) and are part of their livelihood.



Looking out the front gate to Nancy's place;
hers was the only I saw with this kind of security



The road leading up to her place



Wrapping Jeff's neck, according to
Aunt Nancy's advice. I think it helped!

The first two days Jeff had a bad head cold so we all just rested.  The temp in Mori is much cooler than Dar so it was a nice break.  You can literally see the highest peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro (Kibo) from the home and it is gorgeous!  We were able to take a nice hike around the area, which took much longer than expected because of our little dawdler, Nancy Marie. :)

 

 Visiting neighbors and their livestock (cows and pigs and goats and chickens)



Justin Maeda, Jeff, Mary, and Nancy Meru



On Thurs we took a bus to Usa River (near Arusha) to meet Justin and Gilbert Maeda (their brother William is the chair of Tuamoyo) who are in the final steps of opening their new Mt. Meru Community Bank.  This is momentous for the community as this bank will do micro-loans, which will help grow the local economy.  Micro-loans do not have a great rate of return, but the long-term outcomes make them worthwhile.  As Jeff was talking with Justin and Gilbert, he and I felt like we were in the presence of greatness.  A quick verbal resume from Justin revealed that he worked in the UN for a period of time and was an advisor to the Tanzanian president as well.  The fact that he returned to his roots to start a community bank is a testament to his loyalty to his people.

Jeff was grilling Gilbert Maeda on the bank - fascinating stuff!



Teresa's beautiful house!



NM, Aunt Nancy, Sarah, Christy, Teresa



After the bank visit, we met up with Teresa and her sisters Sarah and Christy, cousins of Uncle Augustine.  Teresa and her husband own PrecisionAir in Arusha.  They generously served lunch in the shade of their garden area which we gratefully accepted!

Next day was a trip to Nakara to stay at Mr. Kimaro's hotel while Aunt Nancy attended a funeral for his brother-in-law.  More in next post!

Visit to Tuamoyo

On Sat, Mar 5th, we finally made it to Tuamoyo to partake in the children's monthly meal.  Usually this meal is made possible by a certain woman, however, this woman is out of town this month and everyone was thinking there would be no March meal.

However!  Someone anonymously donated a goat to Mama Mkubwa Fatuma, who was then able to sell it for a good amount of money which was then put towards a March meal.

We had 3 of Mr. Kimaro's sons (the gentleman who lives downstairs) join us: Evans, Alan, and David; as well as one of the professor's nephew's, Lucas (the professor is also on the Tuamoyo board and is one of Nancy's neighbors).  Plus of course Nancy Marie, the little one.  The 8 of us trekked out of Savei with a big cake in hand that Aunt Nancy had baked the day before in Mr. Kimaro's oven.

The trek involved 3 dala dala rides (hot and crowded), ride on the ferry to cross the bay, and a bajaji ride.  How might 7 grown adults with 1 child fit into a bajaji?  Well, we fit into two of the them.  In one, Lucas had Nancy Marie on his lap, Jeff had me in his lap, and Evans fit in with us.  It was a wild ride with my head hitting the top of the bajaji and my knees hitting the back of the driver.

Finally made it to the building in Tuamoyo where meals are held in a courtyard under the shade of a big tree.  There were maybe 80 children, sitting on long, thin wooden benches, and the Mama Mkubwas were all there getting the meal ready.  There was a sort of stage - concrete platform - where Aunt Nancy had all us guests sit for the kids to see us and she presented the cake to the kids.  They were all so obedient and anxious to get the meal going.  I found I was nervous.  80 children looking at us expectantly.



Mama Mkubwas in the back row - Fatuma just above my
head; the guys on either side of us: Evans, Alan, David,
and Lucas; Nancy Marie on Lucas' lap.



We finally got the meal going which included a big pot of rice cooked with meat and spices; a veggie stew; and of course, a small piece of cake.  And amazingly, the funds from the goat afforded sodas for everyone, as well as some local entertainment - 5 teenage guys who danced to hip hop music.  The kids were pretty engaged, but I think they were most excited about how much food they received.  I tell you, the food on their plates was mounded as high as possible - it was impressive.



Jeff and Mary with some of the kids eating their meal.



Small girl of Tuamoyo who kept stealing
glances at me and Jeff during the entertainment;
earned her a picture!

At the end of the meal and after the dancing guys had left, the kids were allowed to dance around the courtyard, which was priceless to see.  Then after they were settled back on their benches, Aunt Nancy had me and Jeff each come up and "say a few words".  What?  I was not anticipating this!  Lucas did the translating and I basically said they were beautiful and thanked them for letting us share the meal; and I told them we were so enjoying beautiful Tanzania.

We finally left Tuamoyo, as we had to return home before dark, and paid a quick visit to a beach - my goodness, the water of the Indian Ocean is WARM.  Made it home after a trek of about 2 hours and took much-needed splash baths (shower has no running water).  And the next day, boarded a bus (with A/C thank goodness) for the 9-hr ride to Moshi!

First day with down time; halfway through trip

Mon, Mar 7th, Noon, Mori village, base of Mt Kilimanjaro

Wow - it's day 8 already and it has been a whirlwind.  Life couldn't be more different I think and nothing is  really as I expected.  The people we've met have been gracious and friendly and excited to meet us; and Aunt Nancy has made us feel at home.

As I type, I'm in a small house on the hillside under the peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro, which, thanks to Aunt Nancy's persistence, got electricity only a year ago.  It's surreal.  It took a 9-hour busride yesterday to get here from Dar.



Jeff and Mary outside Nancy's apartment;
her home is the top level; Mr. Kimaro owns the whole building;
he and his family live in the bottom portion.



Our first day was last Monday, the 28th of Feb.  Aunt Nancy and nephew Jonathan met us at the airport at 5:30am after 26 hours of traveling and whisked us away into the INSANE traffic of Dar es Salaam.  I tell you I do not understand the traffic rules even after a week.  After a wash and some breakfast we were off to the city to run errands, including depositing our donation to Tuamoyo in the bank ($1500!!!).

Errands are no small thing to accomplish here.  Aunt Nancy lives in an area of Dar called Savei.  It takes over an hour to get into down town riding buses, small ones called dala dalas.  Everyone crams in for the hot ride, and you literally have to push and shove your way on or you will get left behind.  Aunt Nancy and 4-year-old granddaughter Nancy Marie managed to get on the first dala dala, and Jeff and I were still outside.  My heart was pounding, and I was thinking, "My God, what if we don't get on?  We'll be left here without her and not know what to do!!!"  But I pushed, and Jeff stayed right with me, and we managed to get on.

After a couple bus rides, we were downtown and, after a break for some Fanta, managed to walk to the bank to deposit the money.  Downtown Dar is BIG and that day the heat was in low 90's.  Jeff and I were EXHAUSTED.

While downtown, Aunt Nancy also had to meet with the Mama Mkubwa in charge, Fatuma.  Remember, the Mama Mkubwas are the elder aunts who are the wheels that turn Tuamoyo.  They each are responsible for a small neighborhood in Tuamoyo (a large district of Dar) and about 10 kids I suppose.  Fatuma is the lead aunt, and she was having trouble gathering all the funds for the meal they were going to provide the following Sat, Mar 5th.  She needed a signature from Aunt Nancy (who is a board member) and a notary stamp for something or other.  Then, we were able to meet "The Chair" of Tuamoyo who was able to say where Fatuma would get the money for the meal (everything seems to be accounted for to the penny).  The Chair was a very nice man, who seemed like the sort we'd love to talk to more, but by the time we met him, I was about to pass out.

Managed to get back on dala dalas and got home to nap.  Even though it's so hot, we absolutely crashed.  Woke up for yummy dinner, made by Aunt Nancy's housekeeper, Mama Bahati (who has been with her since one can remember), and crashed again for the night.

The next day was much like the first - dala dalas, errands, heat, meeting many people, getting stuff done.  We managed to make last minute reservations on to a 2-night safari in Ruaha national park, which took up the next couple days.  The safari is for another post - I'll say now it was incredible.

Made it home from the safari by taking a wild bajaji ride from the airport through the city in the rain.  I wish I had taken video but my camera battery had just died.  You wouldn't believe it unless you saw it.  Bajajis are these little cars for carrying people - the driver sits in front in the middle, and there's a seat in back wide enough for 3 people to squish in (which is always me, Jeff, Aunt Nancy, with Nancy Marie on Nancy's lap).  The sides are open and there are no seatbelts.  These little bajajis weave in and out of the cars and trucks and buses like it's nothing, and at times, even get up on the "sidewalks" where people are walking.  They just honk their horns to let people know they're coming and it's up to the people to get out of the way; which they do, but they saunter out of the way, they don't run or walk briskly.  My heart is always skipping a beat thinking we'll hit a pedestrian, or that a truck will squish us on the road.

IN FACT, we did get run into a ditch by a truck on our SECOND day.  I couldn't believe it.  I wanted to take a picture, but felt bad for our bajaji driver so I didn't.  He got out of the vehicle and was crouched on the ground.  At first Jeff and I thought he was low to the ground to inspect any damage, but it turns out he had polio and his legs didn't work.  He was picking up his feet with his hands.  The bajajis are driven like motorcyles with the throttle and brakes in the handle bars, which is why he could drive it.  Anywho, we were able to get the bajaji out of the ditch and continue on our way unharmed and unsquished by the big truck, who was a jerk.


Nancy's niece, Cisi, who presented me a beautiful Khanga
 made from zebra print; and her two sons, Tino and Lute.
Nancy Marie is Nancy's granddaughter.



The heat is at times oppressive, but for the most part bearable.  There are problems with the electricity in Aunt Nancy's apartment to the despair of her and Mama B and Mama B's son, Bahati, who lives with them at times.  It appears unfixable until the electric company can come in and do something.  Anyways, the only way it really affects me and Jeff is that the fan at night doesn't work.  It feels like the heat is literally pushing down on us and we can't breathe.  The other night we moved out into the living room where it was cooler and were able to get some Z's.



Aunt Nancy and Mary eating Italian ice cream in an area called the Slipway